DIY Car Maintenance and Repair

Thursday, October 05, 2006

Compression, Battery Load, Starter, Alternator

Compression Test

To disable fuel and ignition, remove fuel pump relay and ignition coil (primary side) connector. Haynes manual says it can be done by removing HV side cable and grounding it to chassis.

Measured 185, 185, 185, 190 psi for cyls 1-4

Battery Load Test
Car is off
Connect VAT40 to battery terminals and set load current to 150A. Measure battery voltage 10.9V. This is greater than min limit 9.6V. PASS

Starter Draw Test

Disable fuel and ignition (see above)
11.4V at 80A

Alternator Test

Reg. Voltage 14.1V-14.7V

At 2krpm, voltage = 14.2V with no extra load

As I increased the load from 0A to about 20A, the voltage drops below 14V!! Is this normal?
Instructor said this indicates alternator will go bad. Typical life is 80,000 miles. Car has 123K miles. But alternator puts out enough current to charge up battery, so it's ok to not replace it if car is not used frequently.

Redo test with lights on, rear defrost, heat fan, radio on. See if voltage is below 14.1V at 2Krpm.



It's better to do the compression check and alternator test with 2 persons.

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