Removing the side engine mount on 626
I decided to remove the passenger side engine mount for inspection. I used a 24" breaker bar and penetrating oil to get the bolts and nuts loose.
For one nut, I used an impact wrench for the first time. Man..that was handy - I'm going to get myself a cordless impact wrench off ebay! Since I'm going to be doing the tire rotations myself, this tool should pay for itself after 4-5 uses. Although I get "free" tire rotations at the tire shop, it's really too much of a hassle because I have to wait at least 1 hour.
I noticed the thru-bolt had very little clearance in the engine mount bracket hole. I had to fine tune jacking up the engine's oil pan to pull the bolt out through the bracket's mounting hole. When I got the bolt out, the engine mount center was at the very edge of the mounting hole. I wonder whether or not the engine is not centered on its mounts. There was a TSB on Alldata about the engine not being centered on the rear mount. This does sound sound easy or fun to center or "neutralize" the mounts.
When I pulled the mount out, the rubber had cracks in it and some separation from the metal. I decided to get a new mount, but none of the local part stores had it in stock. So I had to put back in the old mount.
Today, I ordered an OEM mount from alleurasianautoparts.com. I searched through several online parts stores, and decided to go with an OEM mount. I've read anecdotal stories of cheap aftermarket mounts failing within a few months. I'll pay a little extra so I don't have to redo the job later.
I hope replacing this one mount will cure most of the vibration at idle problems. If not, then I'll replace the transmission mount, which isn't too difficult to take out. I'm not touching the rear mount - that's too much work for a car that I'll probably get rid off in less than a year. I want to fix the vibration problem because that's the most noticeable problem.
For one nut, I used an impact wrench for the first time. Man..that was handy - I'm going to get myself a cordless impact wrench off ebay! Since I'm going to be doing the tire rotations myself, this tool should pay for itself after 4-5 uses. Although I get "free" tire rotations at the tire shop, it's really too much of a hassle because I have to wait at least 1 hour.
I noticed the thru-bolt had very little clearance in the engine mount bracket hole. I had to fine tune jacking up the engine's oil pan to pull the bolt out through the bracket's mounting hole. When I got the bolt out, the engine mount center was at the very edge of the mounting hole. I wonder whether or not the engine is not centered on its mounts. There was a TSB on Alldata about the engine not being centered on the rear mount. This does sound sound easy or fun to center or "neutralize" the mounts.
When I pulled the mount out, the rubber had cracks in it and some separation from the metal. I decided to get a new mount, but none of the local part stores had it in stock. So I had to put back in the old mount.
Today, I ordered an OEM mount from alleurasianautoparts.com. I searched through several online parts stores, and decided to go with an OEM mount. I've read anecdotal stories of cheap aftermarket mounts failing within a few months. I'll pay a little extra so I don't have to redo the job later.
I hope replacing this one mount will cure most of the vibration at idle problems. If not, then I'll replace the transmission mount, which isn't too difficult to take out. I'm not touching the rear mount - that's too much work for a car that I'll probably get rid off in less than a year. I want to fix the vibration problem because that's the most noticeable problem.
posted by MyTravels at
12:33 AM
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